Thursday, June 14, 2018

Thrilled to learn advance natural printing 深層學習植物印染

Set of natural printed garment with purses just made.   I love the prints and the new tone totally different from what I used to make.  I don't know how to do the prints.  Prints on the fabrics were made in March when I was in Israel.
這襲衣裳及同系布包包是早前在以色列跟大師 Irit Dulman 製作植物印染布料,回家後自行車縫。這印染技巧高深,六月份Irit 在荷蘭授課,因此明天上路遠赴荷蘭再與其他學生深入學習。
侍七月初回來來再更新網誌。
It is advance technique of natural 3D prints (#3DPrintRD) of textile surface design.  When I visited the master Irit Dulman in Israel she was so generous to show me how to lay plants for the design.  When I opened the bundles I was so excited for the outcome. 

Each piece is so beautiful with different shades.  Irit was so generous to give me such presents of prints making while I stayed in good friend Betty's house.

I was home with the beautiful prints and happy to make use of all the panels.  Then I made a tunic with the raglan sleeves pattern from Revital Avidar.

A simple tunic I modified a bit with folded sleeves and side pockets.
I love every inch of the fabric,  each leaf or flower prints is so unique from Israel.

The flower looks almost popped up
I used up every single scrap of the fabric.  Just don't want to throw away the remnants, I made them into two purses.

This is logwood dyed with discharge prints of oxalis, both side of the prints.

I made the purses with lining and pocket compartment with the swatches of curtains.  The detachable strap is from daughter's used purse.
Part of the prints from those plants in Israel.
I printed the fabric in Israel, made the garment in Hong Kong and will dress it in Holland.
 
This video is where I am in Hong Kong.  Tomorrow I will be off to Holland to learn from master Irit Dulman for the advance prints surface design. I will be out of blogging till July.  Please come back I will share with you my days in Holland.

Friday, June 8, 2018

Purple love in June 六月紫愛


I found the making of a cowl neck tunic is rather easier for me than others. Just cut two pieces, the front and back then line the arm holes.   That's it.  It drapes nicely.  So these days I've sewed a few more.  This one I made for my sister.  Hope she likes it.
最近很喜歡做這款襯衫,很簡單的兩幅剪裁,沿垂的領口也很易做,這襯衣以巴西野牡丹花印在𢇁料上,就是鋪排了花兒與尤加利葉子,花朵色素可能牢固度不高,著色前布料以明樊媒染處理,希望色固持久些,這是送給妹妹的衣裳,也是試驗品,若退色了也可拿回給我再做印染。
這月份尤愛紫色,下次貼文也是紫色調的襯衣製作,我很喜歡的一襲衣服,過幾天詳述。
 
Mogi already approved the prints when I took it out of the dye pot.
This is the kind of flower (Tibouchina urvilleana) for the natural prints on silk.

The composition "before and after".  Silk is pre-mordant in alum overnight then bundle steamed for an hour.  Honestly I am not sure the colorfast of this flower.  I printed before but not washed often, it still stays for two years with little faded out.


Orange is from eucalyptus

Thought I would make a few more of the cowl neck top or tunic with my experiment panels.
These days I fond of purple.  From my stash a few very nice prints in purple tone I just wanted to do another garment.
Next post will be the finished garment I am going to show.  Stay tuned for the shots.

Friday, June 1, 2018

Own grown prints of strobilantes garment 自家種植馬藍印染衣裳

Strobilantes prints on cowl neck top and tunic 
How nice to make own garments even printed with own grown strobilantes.  Strobilantes are typical for indigo dye but the leaves also print nice, not blue but purple.  The strobilantes in my pot is a few years old but still thriving.  The leaves are so large but not enough to make the indigo vat so I just like to do prints with them.  I have done many pieces of prints.  Here are the two garments I sewed recently with those yardages printed.
這兩件成衣都是自己園子種植的馬藍葉印染,能夠自己種植物印染後又縫製成衣裳總有點獨特,無袖子的背心在香港的炎夏很清爽,中袖子的長襯衣正好是月中去歐洲合穿了。

The cowl neck top printed with a few casaurina for the lines.  The raglan tunic sleeves printed with more for the rich purple tone.

 This strobilantes I got from the garden years ago when French master Michel Garcia was performing demo in that garden in Hong Kong (last post).

This is the placement of the plants and prints.
As usual when I tried the garment layout, Mogi occupies it.  He's a good company.
A sunny day for the shots near my studio after making the garments.

Sleeveless cowl neck top is comfortable in the hot summer.
The raglan sleeves tunic with pockets I like for the upcoming Europe trip. 

Saturday, May 26, 2018

Making of natural dyed tunic sets 天然植物印染襯衣製作

This is an easy piece slip tunic set.  The base is just cut two, front and back then lined armholes and neckline.  Actually I printed and dyed this chiffon last year but in stash long as don't know what to do with such light and thin silk chiffon. Also it's not my fav since not red as I wanted.  Until weeks ago I took it out for the cutting to go with other experiment panels.  Intended to make it flowing,  another tunic of panels goes for layered style.
 
Now is May but we're in Hong Kong already into summer.
That day I went to the beach near my studio for the shots. Walking in the hot sands but still cool with the light wear.

 
This is how the prints placed. Mainly of eucalyptus, rose leaf and mandarin leaf. Grey is reaction of tannin and iron.
I made the outer one with open panels so as to see the prints of the inside layer.
I wanted the basic layer goes well with other outfits.  Thus I sewed another outfit with my fav lemmon marigolds prints.


Front panels are actually mirror prints of left and right.  Just don't want it looks parallel, I sewed one upside down.

Prints more focus on the sleeves. Left photo is alum mordant fabric while the other is madder dyed with tied onion skin prints.
  
Silk prints of iron mordant and alum mordant with different shades
For the making of onion prints I wrapped the skins with fabric and tied with parchment paper.   All my prints of these sets boiled not more than an hour.
 
The set is light and what I want in this summer.

Sunday, May 13, 2018

Natural prints on knit silk with windfalls 落葉的印染

This prints on knit silk with those leaves collected on biking.   Prints mainly of eucalyptus and lemmon marigolds leaves.
 
Last week I went to the suburb just wanted to get some windfalls. It's a leisure ride so I was in light outfit of my own prints.  The fallen eucalyptus buds are perfect for my experiments.  
 
Home with handful windfalls and done on knit silk with alum and tannin mordant.  I made double (mirror) prints, one with alum mordant, one with iron mordant so as for two shades of outcome.
Prints of eucalyptus buds with iron mordant 

"Before & After" of one placement for two prints in one go. 
Iron mordant print is khaki and alum mordant is golden yellow.
Two pieces of knit silk of the same plants with different tones done in one go.
This heavy knit silk drapes nicely.
 
It's such a good experiment on this sort of knit silk.
Technique of this mordant prints learnt from Irit Dulman two years ago.  Just love how variety we can do with such skills.
I gave this silver grey one to a friend who went with me for the biking.
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